The concrete curbing industry is currently experiencing a period of high growth as home owners look for new ways to customize and personalize their homes without over capitalizing their investment.

For the last ten years or more, many people have been able to take advantage of steady growth in the housing and property market, which has enabled more people than ever to become home owners. This growth in the housing market has been driven by a range of factors, one of them being the baby boomer generation, who have gained access to large amounts of superannuation, which has in-turn has stimulated the property market. Most economists would now agree that property and housing sector is due for a period of reduced growth, although other businesses are set to thrive in these conditions. The concrete curbing and edging business is one of these businesses. For more visit http://www.concrete4curbs.com/

Obviously, people who do not own their own home are not going to be interested in spending money on concrete curbs and edges to beautify their rented dwelling, and this is why the housing boom has been so pivotal for our industry. Concrete curbing business owners need home owners with which to build a clientele and today the number of homeowners is higher than ever before. More importantly, this new generation of homeowners are far more informed about the value of renovating and landscaping their homes. They understand the importance of what realtors call “curb appeal”. Also they understand that it is very easy to overcapitalize your investment by spending up big on features that make little if any difference to a homes value.

This is where concrete curbs and concrete edging is enjoying growth in demand. Homeowners can see that for a small outlay, they can get significant improvement in the aesthetics of their outdoor areas. By getting concrete curbing around their garden beds and concrete edging along their paths they can make a significant change to the look of a garden without a big outlay.

With every demand for a service emerges a new business opportunity. Concrete curb businesses are in a niche due to the fact that the outlay required for starting the business, or startup costs are very low. Essentially the major costs are that of a concrete curbing machine, a trailer and an operator. To find out more about the initial startup capital required visit http://www.concrete4curbs.com/ . Clearly this kind of opportunity is well suited to an able-bodied person who is looking to take some control over their finances and working environment. Obviously it requires people to take a greater degree of responsibility, although the low start up an operating cost mean far less stress on a financial level. Concrete curbing and concrete edging is definitely an area worth looking into.

About The Author

Steve Joseph is a regular contributor to http://www.concrete4curbs.com and permission to reproduce this article is given only on the basis that all links remain active and intact.

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Over long periods of careful cross-pollination and selection, he developed stunning varieties of the flower and when he died, his birthplace was renamed Chuhsien. The City of Chrysanthemums. His efforts had produced a legacy that would bring pleasure to this world for centuries.

When China imported the first chrysanthemums to Japan, the people there bestowed many honors upon them. The Japanese wrote legends. To sip dew from the petals meant long life. To eat the flower meant immortality. Philosophers said that the systematic opening of the “ray” flowers symbolized both the sun and the perfection of orderly life.

By 800 A.D. the chrysanthemum had become so prestigious that only royal and noble families were permitted to cultivate it. Among the highest honors that could be bestowed in Japan was admittance to the Order of the Chrysanthemum… a reward granted to nobility for service to the Emperor.

In great contrast to this, the “mum” didn’t make much of an impression when traders introduced it to Europe in the 1600s. But when in finally did catch on, it became one of the most popular blooms for both flower shops and gardens.

Today the mum comes in dozens of varieties. Fuji mums project rays with curly ends. Spider mums have straight-ended rays. Starburst mums have forked ends, while spoon-ended mums have a loop at the end of their rays. China mums are called “standard” and “football” because of their large, round heads. Daisy-like mums are called pompons. And those forming tight little balls are called button pomps.

Whether associated with spoons, forks or footballs, or with royalty or immortality, “mum” is the word for beautiful gardens and long-lasting floral arrangements. When you care for them as cut flowers, try to keep their ancient beauty away from such modern-day contraptions as air conditioning, TV sets and heaters. Don’t place them in drafts or direct sunlight. Do watch their water, and replace it when needed. This way, a bouquet of mums can make your day every day for at least a week, maybe two.

Additional information and resources related to this article can be found at: http://www.garden-source.com/archives/2005/05/30/the-rich-history-of-chrysanthemums/

© 2005 This article is provided courtesy of The Garden Source Network - http://www.garden-source.com

This article may be freely published on any website, as long as the links are live, and this notice is left intact.

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Curtain rods come in as many different styles and materials as fabric curtains. They can make or break the appearance of your window depending on how you hang them and how they are finished off. Knowing what you can do with the curtain rod will give you some decorating ideas you may not have thought of before.

Anatomy of a Curtain Rod

To start the curtain rod consists of three main parts. There is the pole part that holds the fabric, then finials which cap off the ends of the poles, and the brackets that mount the rod to the wall. Each part can be strictly utilitarian or add a decorative element.

Some curtain poles are adjustable. They are made of two parts that slide into one another so the pole can be lengthened or shortened. This is a good design feature if you decide you want to change the appearance of the width of the window by expanding the window dressing.

The finials are end pieces that can be very ornate and made of many different materials. Some are made of blown glass while others are carved wood. The finials need to match the rod part for a coordinated look. They can be changed out whenever you want just a little updating to the window’s appearance without having to change everything.

The brackets on a curtain rod set can be hidden by the pole or a part of the décor. When the brackets are decorative they can stick out from the wall and allow two rods to feed through them. This would be used to create a layered look with sheer fabric closest to the window and a heavier fabric on top of it.

Hanging Rods to Create New Looks

Many people make the mistake of hanging rods too high or too low. There really isn’t a wrong way, but perhaps a better way. For example, if you have extremely high ceilings and the windows don’t go very close to the top of the wall, you can create longer looking windows by hanging your curtain rods closer to the ceiling. You will need more length in your drapes of course, but it will make your windows much taller.

Likewise, you can create more width to your window by hanging the drapery wider. You still will not want the edge of the window to show, so to create the illusion of greater width, you can bring fabric right to the edge of the window and then go out as wide as you like. It will appear as if the drapes had been drawn in part way on a very large window.

Seeing Double and Triple

Curtain rods come in many styles but also have built in double and triple rods. These rod styles are great for more layering. You can hang sheers and drapes ( http://www.curtains-drapes-coverings.com/drapes.html ) , or two different fabric patterns. The layering gives a rich look that can also serve as insulation for older windows that may allow a draft to come in.

Curtain rods can be used on more than just windows too. They can support decorative fabric wall coverings. These types of drapes that cover an ugly wall and can warm up a room and help with controlling noise. There really is no limit to the uses for curtain rods in decorating. Your imagination can put them anywhere.

About The Author

Ciara McNamara publishes many articles for http://www.curtains-drapes-coverings.com which is an internet site for decorating information. Ciara is helping people finding the best solutions for curtain rods ( http://www.curtains-drapes-coverings.com/curtain-rods.html ) and home improvement topics.

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Every year, usually in January, we (Builders Architectural - a top Chicago-based window contractor) receive phone calls from customers who complain of sudden condensation on their windows.

This condensation can be surprising because of its sudden onset and large volume. Condensation is widely misunderstood but actually it is quite simple.

Think of a glass of cold beer on a muggy summer day when you are outdoors. The glass in your hand is dripping water on its outer surface to such extent you might almost think the liquid is actually leaking through the glass.

Unless you are drinking from a practical joker’s dribble glass, leaking glass is probably not the cause. The real cause is airborne water vapor(a gas) converting to liquid when it cools while contacting the cold glass. The water vapor has cooled to its “dew point” and condensed into a liquid.

This happens on your windows during a winter cold snap in the exactly same way.

Lets say you live in Chicago and so far the winter has been moderate. Your humidifier is set at 35-40% relative humidity(RH). One day the outside temperature drops from +30F to +10F.

Suddenly your windows are fogged. In extreme cases water drips down the face of the windows. Left unattended, water can damage window frames and finishes.

Then you call your favorite window contractor and complain that your windows are defective. Chances are they are not. The elevated humidity in your home has come in contact with very cold glass surfaces. The water vapor within the air has changed to a liquid form and is now visible on your windows.

Generally, most windows which are “thermal”- meaning they have insulated glass and either wood frames or aluminum frames with thermal breaks - are designed to function well to a range of +10F exterior and +70F interior, with an interior relative humidity (RH) of 25-30%. If any of these variables change, condensation may result.

Window treatment should help, shouldn’t they?

One of the most surprising aspects of condensation can be that it frequently take place behind fixed, insulated, or tightly fitting window treatments such as heavy drapes or honeycomb-style window treatments.

This is not what one would expect. We correctly think of these treatments as adding insulating value to the house. Why would condensation take place here?

The answer is simple. While it is true that window treatments can reduce the flow of heat through a window opening, there is an unfortunate by-product:

Window treatment prevents the flow of roomside heat from warming the glass surface. Glass surface temperature will cool. An environment may be created for condensation.

While window treatments retard the flow of heat, they don’t do much for retarding the flow of water vapor. You need a fully taped foil or plastic vapor barrier for that.

Remember osmosis and diffusion from high school biology? Of course you do. These forces of nature are playing themselves out on your windows and draperies. To refresh your memory:

Osmosis: The force in nature wherein water naturally migrates from a place of greater concentration to a place of lesser concentration. This is your roomside humidity equally dispersing itself throughout your house.

Diffusion: Osmosis through a semi-permeable membrane. The membrane is your window treatment. Diffusion is also known as “vapor drive”.

What can be done in my home? # Wipe off the condensation. By doing this, you are physically reducing roomside humidity.

# Open the windows an inch or so. The dry outside air will mix with humid inside air and reduce roomside humidity.

# Lower your humidifier settings to 25% or below.

# Open up your blinds and drapes to a level which will allow the roomside heat to warm the glass surfaces.

# Use exhaust fans during and after showering and cooking.

# If you are painting or drywall taping open the windows to allow moisture to dissipate.

# Look at your clothes dryer. Make sure it vents to the exterior. “Vent-less” clothing dryers can bring large amounts of moisture into living spaces.

It could be the windows too

After excluding non-window sources, look for these possibilities on the windows themselves:

# Weather-stripping not tightly compressed allowing air infiltration into the space. Although we know that air infiltration can actually reduce interior humidity, it can also focus a cold spot on a metal window or glass edge.If there is a cold spot you could see condensation or even frost which could be window related.

# There could be a similar cold spot where caulk is missing at the perimeter of the window.

# Your windows could be single-glazed, where only one layer of glass, rather than two, separates you from the exterior.

Deal with humidity first

Good strategy would be to deal with the living space issues first. If you attack them as we describe above, condensation can disappear in 24-48 hours.

If condensation persists, look to the windows and caulking.

Copyright 2006 Mark Meshulam

About The Author

Mark Meshulam is Executive Vice President and Director of Engineering for Builders Architectural, a top Chicago-based window contractor. http://www.buildersarch.com.

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One of the biggest energy expenses for homes is heating the pool. Using the power of the sun can keep you swimming in the middle of winter.

If you have a pool, you know heating it can run your utility bill through the roof. Fortunately, there are a number of practical steps that can be taken to cut costs.

Many people who complain about the cost of heating their pools fail to take common sense steps to cut the bill. One of the unrealized costs is the power required to run the filter circulation system. Spend the money on a high powered pump and you will save money. The more you pump, the less time it will need to be on.

Next, make absolutely sure you use a cover for the pool. Heat escapes through uncovered surfaces. If you’re not using the pool, put a cover on it just like you would a hot tub. Try to add a solar bubble cover, which will create a bit of water heat by letting the sun in. Regardless, using a pool cover will make a major difference in your utility bill. Don’t be lazy! Make sure you keep the cover on the pool.

Even pool covers can only do so much to keep a pool warm. For some people, cutting the costs associated with warming a pool means going to a solar system. Solar heating systems for pools can be a very cost effective way to keep water warm throughout much of the year without driving your utility bill through the roof.

Solar platforms typically will heat a pool up to around 80 degrees, but not much more. The systems tend to be less expensive than home heating systems because they are smaller and need fewer components. You solar vendor can help you figure out what you need for your particular situation, but the rule of thumb is you need panels totaling half the size of the pool. This can vary based on whether the pool has a dark bottom and is isolated from the wind.

With utility bills soaring, many people are forgoing heating their pools to save money. By taking practical steps and possibly using a solar heating system, you’ll have the glory of swimming in January and not worrying about the utility bill.

About The Author

Rick Chapo is with http://www.solarcompanies.com - a directory of solar energy and solar power companies. Visit http://www.solarcompanies.com/articles to read more solar electricity articles.

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One of the most important rules of growing roses is to plant the rose bush in an area that receives around 4 to 6 hours of sunlight every day.

It is preferable not to plant too many trees or other plants around the rose bush because most of these are likely to either mix with the rose or stifle it’s growth. If you are replacing an old rose bush, approximately 1 1/2 cubic feet of old soil should be removed, and fresh soil added to replace it. When positioning your rose in the garden or landscape, consider the growth habit of the rose.

For example, place climbers and ramblers along fences, trellises, or next to arches or pergolas. This location offers them free range of growth, and optimal potential for the showiest blooms.

Roses also look beautiful in island garden beds interplanted with perennials. Miniature roses make great edging plants in front of their taller cousins. Planted singly, shrub roses make excellent specimen plants or they can be clustered to make a flowering hedge. You can also use them to camouflage unsightly garden objects.

Dig a hole large enough for the root mass and loosen the bottom of the hole. You should add bone meal, which is a slow acting source of phosphorus that leads to healthy root growth in the rose plant.

Then the plant should be placed in the hole carefully and the hole refilled with soil, covering the roots properly. Before making the final covering, water the rose plant and let it absorb the water. After this, water the plant more and mound the soil about 6 inches high. The dome will keep the stems from drying out until the plant is rooted. Gradually remove the excess soil as the leaves open.

Special care should be taken with the planting depth. It varies according to the climate you live in.

If you live in a colder area, plant a bit deeper and consult with the people growing roses in your area. If you are buying potted roses, you should plant them about 1 inch deeper than their potted level.

The best time to plant roses varies depending on the winter temperature. Where temperatures don’t drop below -10 degrees F; either fall or spring planting is satisfactory. If you live in an area where winter temperatures go below -10 degrees F, spring planting is preferred. Plants should be planted in a dormant condition if purchased bare root, but container grown plants may be planted throughout the growing season.

Spacing of the rose plant is highly influenced by the temperature. In regions where winters are severe, the rose plant does not grow as large as in mild climates. Taking this into consideration, hybrid tea roses should be spaced 1 1/2 to 3 feet apart. Large vigorous growers, such as hybrid perpetuals need 3 to 5 feet of space, and the climbers need from 8 to 10 feet of space.

If the winter temperature is below 10 degrees F, roses can grow healthy if proper care is taken. The gardener must prepare for that cold, wet reality as he revels in the summer air conditioning.

In zones 7 and colder, the roses enjoy their last fertilization of the season by August 15th to limit the emergence of new rose canes, which will almost certainly not survive the winter.

Additional information and resources related to this article can be found at: http://www.garden-source.com/archives/2005/05/26/how-and-when-to-plant-roses/

© 2005 This article is provided courtesy of The Garden Source Network - http://www.garden-source.com

This article may be freely published on any website, as long as the links are live, and this notice is left intact.

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By definition, a molding is an ornamental piece of wood, metal, or plaster, used to decorate or outline something. It can be used on the interior or exterior of a home. Moldings frame walls, ceilings, windows, and door openings. Examples of moldings used to decorate with are baseboards, crown molding, and chair rails. Today, I want to talk exclusively about crown molding as a decorative architectural choice.

Crown molding, also referred to as crown moulding, or cornice, is probably the most important architectural accent used to detail any interior space. Most interior designers today would agree that every room can be improved with the use of crown molding. Crown molding smoothes the transition from the wall to the ceiling and does a wonderful job of defining the architectural style of a room. The size and style of crown molding used may vary widely, from a simple cove in a farmhouse kitchen to a large built-up cornice in a grand entry.

The initial use of a cornice in building design is anyone’s guess. By the time the ancient Greeks had gained power, rules had already been created to define the use and design of crown molding. Originally, it was used as a structural element to help support the weight of the roof. It also served to keep water away from the building, thus protecting the lower walls and the foundation. However, the use of cornice as a decorative element was not considered any less important than it’s more utilitarian functions. Most of the ornamental design patterns that you see on today’s crown molding originated from the ancient Greeks. Egg and dart, dentil and acanthus leaf are the most obvious examples and these were used extensively in ancient times by both the Greeks and the Romans.

With the rebirth of the arts in the Renaissance period came a renewed interest in classical architecture as well. The rules of the classical orders were applied to the interior decoration of rooms. These were the rules of “3″. A column, the basis of classical architecture, is divided into 3 parts: base, shaft and capital. The base and the capital were then further divided into 3 parts and prescribed rules applied to the relationship and the proportion of these divisions as well. The same divisions that apply to a column are also applied to the wall. The wall is divided into the baseboard, the wall and a crown molding. The lower wall can be further divided into the base, dado and chair rail. Finally, the upper wall is divided into the picture molding, frieze and crown molding.

When beginning any decorative project to include several types of molding, it is recommended that you choose the style and size of crown molding first, as it is the most prominently displayed. Then select the rest of the moldings to match. Regarding the proper sizing of the crown molding, advice is abundant and many guidelines have been written. Most often the advice directs you to select the size of the crown molding based on the height of your ceiling. This may be a common approach to this aspect of the design process, though, as larger crown moldings have often been used to impressively decorate rooms of more modest proportions. What IS important is to properly scale the casings and other moldings to the size of the crown molding that you wish to use. When choosing crown molding for your interior, feel free to select the size and style that YOU like. Historically, larger crown moldings were more frequently used than what is recommended today by many interior designers. Change is anticipated as the current architectural renaissance continues and more designers and homeowners endeavor to add warmth to their homes and to personalize their interiors. So have a go at it and don’t be intimidated . You are limited only by your imagination.

copyright 2006 goceilingmedallion.com

About The Author

Patricia Tomaskovic is the President of http://www.goceilingmedallion.com Copyright 2006. Visit us soon and let us help you decorate with style. We look forward to serving you.

info@goceilingmedallion.com

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The origins of cast iron water heated towel warmers referred to as radiators, dates back to the 1920’s, but were quickly phased out during the Depression era and when the economy eventually picked up never made a strong comeback until recently. When the mid 90’s approached, homeowners began incorporating new technologically advanced towel warmers into their bathroom remodeling projects due to the warm luxurious nature both electric and water heated towels rails bring about in today’s bathrooms. The feeling of wrapping yourself in a warm toasty towel after stepping out of a bath or shower provides a soothing sensation rather than a cold damp just used towel.

With the reintroduction of the heated towel warmer spawned a vast selection of styles and finishes not only for the bathroom, but are now being installed in bedrooms, mudrooms and basements for added heat and as a way to reduce moisture and mildew. Hydronic heated towel warmer models use hot water from either your domestic hot water heater or hydronic system which requires the use of a circulating pump in order to warm the towel rails. Electric self-contained rail warmers are oil filled, once plugged it the oil begins heating and since they have low wattage heating elements they are a safe and economical way of bringing warmth to any room. The beauty of these paneled radiators whether electric or hydronic are great for those chilling winter months for warming blankets and drying wet winter clothing.

Fashionable Heated Towel Rails

The combination of design and practically are both appealing with a wide variety to choose from that take up little floor and wall space making it easy to custom coordinate the sleek look of these towel heaters in to any bathroom décor. Contemporary column designs to the traditional radiator styles have been ingeniously recreated to look more like a fashion piece of furniture adding to ambiance of your bathroom. The craftsmanship and design of the heaters allows pipes, radiator valves and fitting to be concealed for a clean uncluttered look as are electrical towel rails equipped with only a plug. The innovational architecture from spiral, curved or ladder types, the towel warmers are available in a number of dimensional sizes, colors and rail designs with chrome finishes leading the way for an aesthetically pleasing display.

With plenty of heating power, the decorative railed towel warmers are a possible alternative for warming any room in your home. Along with a multitude of styles and designs comes the offering of power, the BTU’s, British Thermal Unit, and power wattage are far more efficient and economical than typical base board heaters making them a hot ticket item for both bathroom manufacturers and retailers.

Written by Shelley Murphy on behalf of www.victoriaplumb.com an online retailer of bathroom furniture, steam showers, shower enclosures, whirlpool spa baths and bath related products serving the United Kingdom.

About The Author

Shelley Murphy of www.trendmx.com brings with her over 10 years of Search Engine Optimization and e-marketing strategies to web based businesses. Holding two BA’s in English and Journalism Communications her writing skills have been a great asset for both onsite writing and monthly newsletters publications.

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There are many sad cases of home renovations not going as planned - often going way over budget or schedule, or unforseen complications popping up unexpectedly and ruining even up to years of work.

Most of these situations would never have gone so awry with some careful planning and early decision making sooner in the renovation process. Below are a few issues that it is vital to think about before you begin your home renovation.

10 Things to Think About BEFORE Beginning Work

Prepare a budget

Be aware of council regulations

Find a tradesperson

Know your start and completion dates

Selecting Products

Prepare plans

Purchasing products

What should I purchase myself?

What services are available to my property?

What sort of hot water unit do I need?

Prepare a budget

Before you start shopping for your new bathroom or kitchen you must know your spending limits. Whether you are getting a loan or paying cash, you need to work out how much your project is going to cost. Some businesses also offer finance solutions for approved customers.

Be aware of council regulations

Find out all the information you can before you arrange tradesperson. If your home is heritage listed you will need to meet strict council regulations. Many renovations must be approved by the council before work can commence. Contact your local council for more details.

Finding a tradesperson

Speak with family and friends who have done renovations or built a home. It is important to find a tradesperson that you can communicate with. Make sure you understand everything they are telling you. Book a tradesperson well ahead of time, as they can be booked for months in advance. Ensure that your tradesperson is licensed. Your product warranties are only valid if installed by a licensed tradesperson. In Australia, Trades@call provide professional, reliable tradespeople for most jobs, and all workmanship is guaranteed.

Know your start and completion dates

Communicate with your tradesperson and come to an agreement of realistic start and completion dates for your project. If you have a specific date that the job must be finished by, for example you have relatives coming to stay, let your tradesperson know. Keep in mind that unexpected problems can hold up your project, no matter how well you have planned it.

Selecting Products

It may take a few shopping trips for you to decide on the products that give you the look you desire and are also practical for your needs. Browse through a print or online catalogue. Once you have decided on a style (modern, heritage or easy living) this will narrow down your product choices. Be aware of any size restrictions of the room. Print out or write down product specifications and measure up your bathroom. You may use the online bathroom planner at the Bourne Bathroom and Kitchen Centre website to layout the products you have chosen.

Talk to your tradesperson about your choices. If the tradesperson tells you that a product you have chosen is unsuitable, find out why. It may just be that extra work is required that they don’t want to do. Remember, it is your home and you need to be satisfied once the job is complete.

Prepare plans

It is important that you draw up plans of your bathroom or kitchen. Discuss the plans with your tradesperson. Let him know what sort of products you would like, so he will know what work needs to be done. For example if you have chosen an inwall cistern, the tradesperson will need to know so he can set up the plumbing correctly before the tiling is done. It is best to have specifications of all of the products you have chosen so the tradesperson knows exactly what work is required.

Purchasing products

When selecting products, find out how long it will take for delivery. Some goods such as tapware and toilets will be in stock, while others such as spas and vanity units are custom made and can take up to 1 month to order in. Often these custom made products are non-refundable so confirm your product choices with your tradesperson before ordering. Find out from your tradesperson which products they will required first. Generally, the first products needed are the shower base, bath or spa and mixers if they are being installed on the wall.

As an owner builder, what should I purchase myself?

If you are owner building, make sure you purchase all of the main products for your bathroom, kitchen and laundry. This will ensure that you make all of the decisions and achieve the result you want. There will be things you will not think about when placing an order, such as different handle types on a vanity unit, the pump position of your spa, that you will need to decide on. It is important to make these decisions yourself as they will affect the overall result of your project. Smaller fittings for plumbing can be purchased by your tradesperson.

What services are available to my property?

It is important to know whether you need gas or electric appliances (hot water unit, cooking appliances). If you live further out from the city, you may need LPG appliances. If you currently have electric appliances and you want to change to gas, speak with your tradesperson to determine if this is going to be cost effective and worthwhile in the long run. If you are building a new home, decide on the appliances you want before building begins, as the plumbing will need to be roughed in based on your product selection.

What sort of Hot Water Unit do I need?

There is a wide range of hot water units available and it can be quite daunting to try and choose one. If you are replacing an existing unit your choices can be limited, so speak with your tradesperson. The instantaneous hot water units are popular at the moment, but they use a larger gas line than the standard storage units. This can mean major plumbing changes which can be quite costly, though in the long run the instantaneous systems are cost efficient. See the Bourne Hot Water Selection Guide for more detail.

Many of these points seem somewhat obvious, but the problem arises when you start taking things for granted. When you don’t make sure that all your bases are covered, you may find that you have invested a lot of time, effort and money in a home renovation that you may end up unhappy with.

About The Author

Richard Bourne is owner and manager of Bourne Bathroom and Kitchen Centres. Bourne Bathroom and Kitchen Centres (www.bournebathrooms.com.au) offer the largest range of bathroom, kitchen and plumbing supplies in Melbourne. Bourne’s exhaustive selection of home renovation supplies and great after sales service have helped thousands of people to buy “beautiful products at beautiful prices” since 1992.

nathan@technologymatters.com.au

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When planting flowers, it is important to remember to follow the instructions on the tag for the plant. Always buy plants that will thrive in the conditions in which you intend to grow them. A plant that loves sun won’t do well in a shady area and you will only be disappointed with the results.

When planning your garden, be aware of the bloom time of the flowers. Planting perennials with different bloom times near each other will insure a garden that has blooms all season long. Remember also to plan for the height of the plants, putting the taller ones in the back.

Below is a list of favorite blue flowering plants that you might want to consider for your garden:

Polemonuim, Blue Pearl - A compact plant with deep sky blue flowers that grows to 10″. It blooms in late spring to early summer. Plant in partial shade and in well drained soil.

Blue Sea Holly - This dramatic plant has a lavender blue cone like flower with long spiked petals. It grows to 30″ and is a favorite for dried flower arrangements. Plant in full sun - blooms in mid to late summer.

Delphinium, Butterfly Blue - Bright blue delicate flowers adorn this plant that blooms in early to mid summer. It reaches 10″ tall and prefers a sunny location with rich moist soil.

Campanula, Blue Carpet - Bright blue to lilac colored flowers bloom for weeks in the middle of summer. This low growing perennial grows to 4″ and prefers full sun with well drained soil.

Penstemon, Blue Buckle - This plant has tubular shaped blooms in blue to purple and flowers in mid summer to early fall. It grows to 15″ and likes well drained soil with full or partial sun.

Hydrangea, Nikko Blue - Gigantic clumps of blue flowers adorn this shrub for most of the summer. In the fall, the flowers turn a golden color. This plant is a new variety that prefers rich soil but will grow in shade, partial sun or full sun.

Vinca - Medium blue flowers and glossy green leaves form a carpet that grows to about 6″ tall and blooms in mid spring. This plant will grow in most soil conditions, in the shade or sun.

Ajuga, Bronze Beauty - This short bushy plant has spikes of blue flowers that grows quickly. Great as a ground cover or in raised beds. It blooms in spring and prefers a shady area.

Scabiosa, Butterfly Blue - A bushy perennial with lavender blue flowers that bloom from June to October. This plant likes full sun and attracts butterflies and hummingbirds.

Verbena, Babylon Blue - Blue purple flowers petals adorn this plant that blooms in early spring. Great for window boxes and planters.

Additional information and resources for this article can be found at: http://www.garden-source.com/archives/2005/05/24/add-rich-color-to-your-garden-with-blue-perennial-flowers/

A beautiful blue wildflower picture can be found at: http://www.garden-source.com/archives/2005/06/02/blue-wildflower-in-kathys-garden/

© 2005 This article is provided courtesy of The Garden Source Network - http://www.garden-source.com

This article may be freely published on any website, as long as the links are live, and this notice is left intact.

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